Today's magnificent walk through the Noguera Ribagorçana Gorge, compensated for the frustration and disappointment of yesterday's debacle. José Ramón could not pick me up at 5:45, so his wife Yohana did, at 4:40, actually, and off we drove to Puente de la Montañana. "You know we are going 7 km past Punete de la Montañana, ¿verdad?" "Sí" Arriving at the town, Yohana waited for me to get out. "No, we have to go to the parking 7 km. from here. You take Calle Arrabal." She shrugged and I waited. Finally she called José Ramón, who directed her, and we went. Only not all the way because there were huge cement barriers blocking the road. But at least I got 5km. shaved off a 27+ km day, which, may I point out, would not be a big deal were it not for the heat.
Reason for the barriers:
Near the beginning of the adventure—honestly, the book made it sound as if you were going to ascend El Capitán—was this bridge that shook and swayed as you crossed:
The walk was dramatic and fantastic, well signed, and thoughtfully designed. There were metal cords to hold onto for many segments; it is mighty deep down to the bottom of that there gorge:
On the other side of the gorge, a series of wooden steps has been built into the side of the rock. To get there, you have to take a boat! That would be really fun, but must be saved for another time or never. Since I started the gorge walk at about 7:00, no one was out doing the steps or doing anything, for that matter. I had the whole canyon to myself!
A view:
Another view because I could not decide which one to delete:
Looking back:
After finishing this part of the walk at about 10:30, I reached another parking area where people can come to start the walk in the other direction. There was an old man looking at bulletin boards there. "Hola," I called, "Buenos días," and waved to him, and then started along the road to Corça, a dot on the map a good half hour walk away. After about ten minutes, old man came roaring up the road in his jeep. I flagged him down. "Are you going to Corça?" knowing full well he had to be since there was nowhere else he could be going. And I think I accepted the lift before it was even offered! There were still several hours of walking in unshaded open areas and it was getting hot, so thirty minutes saved would be very helpful. So, Estaban, 84 years old and quite hard of hearing, took me not only to Corça but all the way to Áger! I did not ask him to, but I did not object when he said he was going there. I told him that I was originally from Montreal; he told me about his trip to Canada with his señora. Maybe that is why he drove me to Áger or maybe he was just nice!!
Tonight's digs, a double decker in a hostel, $16.00. You get to put the sheet on your bed, and for $1.50 each you can get towels. I can hardly wait to schlep my suitcase down two flights of steps tomorrow morning at 5:40 when Dudu the taxi driver will come to drive me a few kilometres down the road before I tackle the route and he goes on with my suitcase to the next accommodation.
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