July 09, Keswick to Skiddaw House

 Here is what All Trails has to say about the Cumbria Way stage from Keswick to Caldbeck:

17.9 mi.  length             3293 ft. elevation gain                 8-10 hours est. time

Embark on a magnificent section of the Cumbria Way that journeys through the atmospheric heart of the Northern Fells.  Setting off from the bustling hub of Keswick, the route follows the path of the River Greta before striking out into the high country, passing below the imposing Lonscale Crags.  You will cross a brilliant variety of upland terrains, transitioning from rocky mountain pathways to open moorland fields, with the remote Skiddaw House offering a memorable landmark along the way.

The climb up towards the summit of High Pike involves a steady, steep effort that will test your legs but the panoramic views from the top are a fantastic reward.  Navigation across the high moors can be tricky in places where the trail is less defined, though keeping a close eye on your map ensures you will stay on track.  Passing the remote shelter of Lingy Hut, the trail guides you down the hillside.......

Translation: The walk from Hell!

What they don't tell you:  You have already climbed your legs off before you reach the leg testing climb toward the summit of High Peak, which comes at about12 or more miles into the walk.  I had decided not to do this stage and after walking about a third of the route to "the remote Skiddaw House," and back I was more than happy with my decision. Too much, too far, too long, too remote, too scary. And you know, not beautiful, but I do realize that that is subjective. Barren moorlands not so much my thing.

The section I did do was hard enough—you climb forever at the start, oh, and it was already two miles to where the adventure starts and it was a relentless, ugly stone track and it was hot. I reached Skiddaw House, described, as already noted, by All Trails as a "memorable landmark" Had I realized that, I would have taken a picture of it. This was 3 1/2 hours after setting out. I was going to go a little bit farther but I wasn't sure of the way at that point, so that was the sign to turn around.

On my way out of Keswick, another of the 200

So close and yet so far away:

I caught you, little fellow!

There are lots and lots of bunnies around here.

Noted:

All of that was on the way to the way.

Either these crossings are becoming easier or I am getting better:

Honestly, that one was pretty shallow.

The countryside starts out looking like this:

And then becomes more like this:

And then like this:

Do not neglect to note the singular tree (above):

A one plank bridge with one railing is better than a one plank bridge with no railing:

Nearing the end of the path, I noticed this pillar and thought, "Woah, a stella!  Let me see if there is some cuneiform thereupon."  There was not:

I encountered a number of hikers, mostly in pairs, as I was on the return leg of my out-and- back, and what struck me was how late there were getting started. CRAZY! Then I had a lovely chat with a couple, to whom I should have said as we parted, "Please tell me your names again," but I was too embarrassed to ask.

July 10, Keswick around Derwentwater

The eleven mile walk around Derwentwater (the lake) is a must do, so I did it.  I selected a route that included a climb up to Cat Bells because, I thought, "Let's get some altitude in today."  The route was pretty, varied, and pleasant, but it was hot.  When I realized how steep the climb up to the summit was (1480 feet, unshaded) I did a Google search and upon reading, "There is a two hand scramble near the top," I abandoned that plan in a flash.  Of course, one is ALWAYS rewarded with a great view for the effort, but, despite the cuteness of the name and the promise of glory, that was not a significant lure pour moi.  There was a low level Cat Bells route, so I opted for that.  Toward its end, there was an option "to summit" without the scramble and all. The sign read,"One mile, 55 minutes."  Can you imagine what that ascent would be like?  I'll leave it for this guy:

Low level Cat Bells path:

The views of Derwentwater were hardly shabby:

Down at the lake:

Three plank bridge with two guardrails:

Beautiful moss and ferns in the woods:

Navigating the beach:

Fun for everyone:

After finishing the circuit,  I changed my shoes and pack, got an ice cream, did the Daf, Connections, made some headway on the Spelling Bee and then headed on over to the Pencil Museum.  On a previous walk, I stayed in Keswick and remembered really enjoying this museum.  

Supposedly, this is how graphite was discovered:

And here is some important information:

Sorry, not able to edit the photos!  

There was a major section devoted to the valuable-ness of graphite; there was a time when it was worth more than gold!  This is the truth.  If you ever go to this museum, your respect for a #2 will increase immeasurably.

Other than what all goes into making a pencil, the most fascinating exhibit had to do with Charles Fraser Smith (Even though I am avoiding Wikipedia these days, it does seem to be a good source for in this case.)  Also. there is a podcast The Gadget Master, which I have not yet listened to yet that), who figured out a way to get maps inside a pencil for use during WWII.  

I wonder if this still holds true

This guy, Alex  Morales,  ran the 2018 London marathon (in 3:40) dressed as a......you guessed it....

The thing is, he had never run in the costume before the race because he did ot want people to seem him so attired.

Now, THIS pencil is one of of only two.  The other was given to QE II on her diamond jubilee.  The place of the eraser is taken by a crown studded with diamonds, and the pencil was made very special and all, with the finest graphite available and using traditional techniques, as you might expect.

It was a high humidity scorcher today, so it was good that exertion was low level...maybe 14 miles all together, but not hard.

July 08, Rosthwaite to Keswick (pronounced Kessick)

I could not believe that this mornng's walk would begin with this!  Even though leaping from stone to stone (and a couple in the middle were submerged) is some people's idea of great fun.  It is not mine!

 

Fortunately, there was a bridge a bit farther on.  

Red squirrel up on a pedestal:

The walk today was not difficult, maybe slightly dull, but every day cannot be a thrill, but when you get right down to it, there were some lovely views:

Some sections were so boggy that these boardwalks were constructed:

Very nice!  Very nice, indeed!

Alpaca or a pony with a very long neck:

The highlight was Derwentwater, the lake on which Keswick is located.

Snack spot:

I arrived in town way too early to even think of going to the hotel, so I looked up "a very pleasant walk" about four miles, and decided to tour the area that way.  The first loop was awful!  You schlepped for blocks only to end up at a campsite full of tiny tents and a huge parking lot.  Since this is a bustling little town, I walked around, got an cherry ice cream, absolutely delicious, did the Daf, Connections and the Spelling Bee, walked around some more, strolled through a park that is on the lake: 

Busy lakefront for fowl:

And people and their dog:

Helicopter advertising the NHS ambulance rescue service:

You have been warned.....again!

Whilst meandering, I was checking the tracker, and as soon as it indicated that my suitcase had  arrived at the hotel, I headed on over to change from boots to sneakers and from back pack to light pack.  At 3:00 on the dot I returned to check in and what a happy moment that was.  The room is gorgeous and comfortable with huge windows that open and a fan on a stand.  And eight minutes away is a Booths where I bought some tasty supplies for dinner and a plum bread and butter for snacks. They even had San Pellegrino Limonata, my beverage of choice I gotta say, pretty nice day over all!

July 07 Great Langdale to Rosthwaite

I confess, I was worried about this stage (even though it was only 10 miles) because of the notorious zig-zag descent.  Every publication talks about it.  ChatGPT with whom I chatted, as one does, suggested, as a tactic, an early start time, 8:00 or 9:00 a.m.  Imagining being stuck between boulders, hanging onto tree branches for stability and other horrors, I made sure to set out at 5:00 a.m. — so that no matter how slow I was, no one would be behind me trying to pass where you could not pass.  It turned out that the infamous descent was the easiest part of the entire walk!  Let's start there.  First, it does not zig-zag exactly, it is called The Snake Trail or something like that, because it is shaped like a long, slithering serpent.  The surface was small stones, so yeah, you want to go slow, but it was not treacherous or even particularly difficult.

Ascent and descent 1400 feet of each, or, to be precise, 1398 up and 1402 down.  The ascent was was about the first third.  It was one of those ascents that as you are climbing, you are thinking, "OMG, I hope the descent is not like this." (See above; it wasn't).  It was boulder-y and well, rocky in every way a mountain trail can be rocky.  Then there were these stream crossings THAT I HATE.  And not only were there many many of them, the water was flowing very fast.  Why that makes it worse, I don't know.  How I managed all the crossings, I don't know either.  Sometimes I went up or downstream looking for a narrower place to leap, sometimes I found one, sometimes I didn't. And the ground was boggy.  Very very boggy, so you had to be careful of that.

When the route leveled off, it was worse!!  Bogs and streams and more crossings, and sometimes a stream was actually the path—thank God it had not rained a ton lately—Let me just say that I don't know if I ever had to concentrate harder on a walk than I did today.  You (I) had to watch every single step.  

¡Esto no me gusta!

The scenery was, uhhh, rugged:

Back to those navigational horrors:

A change of topic for a minute and on to the weather.  At first it was ferociously windy, so that was something to worry about because I thought that way up high, the wind would be unbearable, but eventually, the wind died down.  It was grey, and misty, and looked like rain, only, baruch haShem, it did not rain.  It was cool, a plus.  Honestly, I hardly paid any attention to the scenery, I was looking at the ground the whole time, calculating where to step.

Not many trees.  This one, like one several days ago, seemed to invite a critter to make a home:

¡Esto, sí me gusta!!

But honestly, the only one like that.


People, yonder, camping in this wilderness!

At the apex of the ascent a cairn and sheep.

One scenery shot:

It was not a good day to take pictures, and I was not especially disposed, so there are very few.  Near the end, I did meet some people who were going in the other direction,...first there were groups of teenagers, who scampered like billy goats, and playing music as they went. Then there were a couple of women who were having a snack; we had quite a chat.  One of them told me that someone she knew fell while in a stream, hit her dead and died.  

It took seven hours to complete the stage, super slow, but having emerged unscathed, I would say that is an accomplishment.  Arriving at the hotel at noon, I could not, of course check in, but I could get a ginger beer for $6.02!  And then spend forever trying to connect to the wi-fi, which I knew ahead of time would be a problem. 

All there is in Rosthwaite are a few hotels and some houses, but it is stop for The Coast to Coast as well as the Cumbria Way, and a good place to come if you have a car and like to hike and don't need a grocery store!  

The Royal Oak is a lovely hotel!  I thought they served lunch, but they don't.   Waiting for dinner until 6:00 is tough when all you have had to eat are grapes and an apple, but the food is reputed to be excellent, otherwise I just would have eaten the second half of yesterday's cheese and pickle sandwich and called it a day!

Just to note, it is amazing how exhausting a major expenditure of mental energy can be.  The physical aspect of the walk was hardly nothing, but the focus and concentration were consuming.  It made me think about Alex Honnold, the guy who free soloed El Capitan and had spent years planning every foot and hand placement.  

According to my watch, I have hardly done a thing all day, so no reason to feel as if I climbed mountains (only one).

 

July 06, Coniston to Great Langdale

At 5:03 I was out the door, dressed in rain gear—not because it was raining (it wasn't) but it was supposed to rain, so why not use the rain jacket as a "layer?"  Not only did it NOT rain for the first time in days, the weather was gorgeous, the scenery was spectacular, and the elevation, about which I had worried quite a bit, was manageable, most likely because the air quality was really good!  Anyway, it was an exquisite, spectacular stage in every respect.

I have deleted a lot of photos of the scenery because they just don't make the cut!

But here are a couple:

AND view from bench where mid morning, that being 9:00 a.m, snack was consumed and enjoyed:

(Or should that be enjoyed and consumed?  Kind of like,"You can't have your cake and eat it, too, which really works better if you say, "You can't eat your cake and have it, too."  Or maybe it does not make a difference!)

Three new friends.  

Stripe-ee:

Brown-ee:

Snuff-ee: 

I am sure his mama loves him very much!

My style of stile (side a):

Yes, they should all be like this! (side b):

High end bridge:

Tree...roots?

There were several groups of high school kids doing the Duke Of Edinburgh Challenge, which is a scouting sort of thing that has several levels.  This one involves something like 5 days of backpacking.

Jolly good!!

AND they navigate using MAPS, would you believe?

Officially, one was supposed to stay on the road:

But I took a gamble on the narrow track.  It paid off!  But you never know with these things.  There could be a locked gate at the other end, only there wasn't.  Then, about a mile or so from the hotel, I chose the low road through pastures instead of the high (official) road.  The app kept yelling at me, "You are 150 feet away from the route.  You are 200 feet away from the route........" but sometimes you just have to assert your independence.  Since I arrived around noon, I had plenty of time to take another walk, so I went back to the turn off and did the official high route back to the Old Dungeon Inn.  I am so glad I did! In addition to the enjoyment, it allowed to to figure out where to start tomorrow.

The hotel is simple, the room is small, but it is bright, clean, has a window that opens as much as you want, a place to put everything, and most important, a nice hotel employee, carried my suitcase up the three flights of stairs to my room and promised to do the reverse to-morrow after I left.