Thursday, September 12, 2013

Fourth Day

Quoted mileage: 14.67; actual mileage: 15.35, not off by much.

It is the strangest thing, El Camino is flooded with walkers and bikers, as in bicycles, until about noon and then everyone seems to disappear. Just to record that observation.

Pamplona is a city of some size. Anyone who has walked long distance paths knows that navigating through cities is the hardest part no matter how good the markings are. El Camino is very well marked with a shell symbol and yellow arrows, but we had to stay vigilant for the first forty five minutes or so until we were out of the city. Three pairs of eyes are better than one---yes, even I occasionally spot the helpful designators.

The morning was cool and rain threatened; good walking weather:




Uh oh, another casualty, this fellow from Ireland:





A sculpted way marker:





We--Tan, Ian, and I--wondered, "WWDQTOT?" (What would Don Quixote think of these?)




The first three hours or so were uphill--not steep but steady--until we reached this ridge where there is a famous sculpture by an artist whose name I do not know. It is delightful:







Aw, what the heck, might as well get in line, too:





Yet a third loss upon The Way. This is becoming a little bit nervous-making:




View with bell tower:



Close up of a big bell tower:



Doesn't Ophelia speak of oleander? Alex---yes? No?








From poison flower, to passion flower:




Serious graffiti:



Not to mention this one: (The OED gives permission to use "graffiti" as a singular, FYI, in case anyone cares. But I really wanted to write "graffito" because how often do you get to say THAT?)




Where the shell symbol comes from? From legends. Here is a short version of the shortest: James was beheaded in Jerusalem. His disciples brought his body to Spain (with or without the head is not clear). There was a shipwreck off shore; the body disappeared. By a miracle it reappeared covered in shells. In any case, the shell is an attractive symbol. There was a a whole string of brass ones along a street:





Towns are deserted at noon, as in not a living soul is to be seen except for us peregrinos:



Who measures up?










Ian fit the mold the best! "But it is all good!" (Apologies, adolescent as it is, that is a bit of a private joke.)

Afternoon view:





Honest to goodness olives on olive trees:



And honest to goodness grapes on grape vines:




At about 2:30 or was it 3:00, we reached Puenta La Reina and our hotel. In the courtyard was this guitar player. How nice is that?




A terrific walk: lucky with the weather, beautiful scenery, nice people, more than decent accommodations, food way better than expected. Is it possible---no complaints? How long will that last?!

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Puenta La Reina

1 comment:

  1. Part of me wants to say of the OED what your graffito says of Spain.

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