Our first day, 16.77 miles, began at 8:30 a.m. in the rain. We chose the low route for a variety of reasons not the least of which was the weather. Why climb an extra I-don't-know-how-many meters if you will not be able to enjoy the fabulous view that the high route promises? Although we "paid" for this choice by having some road walking, the road walking was not too bad and we had gorgeous scenery almost all the way. We also were able to stop for a latte at about the half way point. The French, and so far the Spanish, do know how to make an excellent cup of coffee. On a cool, rainy day the mid-day treat was especially welcome.
The guillotine is so yesterday, but these heads seemed to be serving as scarecrows:
View of a village with rain clouds on the mountains:
The Pyrenees with rain clouds but no town:
A pretty stretch of path:
There were many many big slugs along the way. Euuuuhhh:
Every now and then there is water available, but in this case the blue sign in the background informs that, OK, you can wash your hands if you like, but do not drink:
If the weather had been good, I might have taken a picture of every cross we saw (maybe not), but this church, cross, and bell just outside of Roncesvalles, where we are staying, at a very nice place, may I add, captures something of the sense of the area:
Today's walk was long but lovely. It did not rain all day, and wet, misty air is perfect for this kind of activity. At one point, we met a group of people, two Japanese, one German, one American, and one of undetermined origin, but likely Mediterranean. Anyhow, they sort of appeared out of nowhere and in a mix of languages asked us if we knew where they could get a cup of coffee. They had started out where we had, but they were walking in the wrong direction! We never saw them again!
We met other small groups, people from Hungary and Italy and France, and the best part is that everyone tries so hard to find some common language to be able to exchange words of greeting and good cheer. One guy had a pen and was asking those he met to sign his T shirt.
By the way, a lot of people were really struggling with the uphill sections of the walk. Maybe they did not realize that you have to prepare for it.
The pilgrim meal. This is "thing," along the way. It is a set price, set menu three course meal + wine, usually inexpensive. Last night we ordered one with rather dismal results. Tonight our hotel offered such a meal at 7:00, and since we did not want to wait until 8:30 when real dinner begins, opted for the Pilgrim menu for a modest 9 euros. It was delicious! Thick, hot vegetable soup, pork and french fries for those who eat pork, a salad and a frittata kind of thing for those who do not, red wine (apparently quite good) and a decent sweetened yogurt for dessert. About 100 people--a wild guess but lots---at many big tables--came from the surrounding hotels and albergues. It was really quite nice. Sort of like summer camp for old people!
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Location:Puente la Reina,Spain
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