Who would ever think that an eight and a half mile walk (walk is the British term for hike, so please do not confuse "walk" with, say, "walk in the park." In the pouring rain, with a climb of over two hours, a climb that goes straight up—and that is just for starters, it can be very very hard. Think of the movie The Mission. Remember the priest guy shlepping up the cliffs beside the falls? OK, so he had bare feet (maybe that made it easier, who knows), but all he was carrying was his flute. Set that scene in northern England in miserable conditions, and you will get the idea--maybe.
Three, young chappies from out of nowhere came to my aid a couple of times to help me over fast-flowing, deep streams. Then I met up with a group, whose leader was kind of enough to let me get in line during a particularly absurd climb, where no sane human being should go.
A little bit later, I bumped into a couple who had stayed at my B and B, and who had excellent navigating skills. I followed them. I collapsed in Grasmere. After an excellent latte in the same shoppe where I had had an excellent latte four years ago, I headed to Glenthorne House, the Quaker-run B and B. It was a gracious, cheerful place to stay. The nicest staff, the best drying facilities I have ever come across, and a cheerful sunroom wherein I drank two cups of tea, tea being served daily at 4:30 p.m. with a variety of cakes, while dozing at the same time.
That B and B, more of a lodge, really, had only three guests last night. Dinner is served there,too. So we ate together--two ladies there for yoga week, one of whom brought her own honey and crackers for breakfast, and I. (I am thinking that that is not a great sentance, but syntax is not my strong suit at the moment.) It was the first place where they made genuine coffee, as opposed to putting instant in a press. Extra stars for that.
Today, rain again, but a short walk to Patterdale, eight plus miles, but a walk with challenges, though not as severe as yesterday's As I was huffing an puffing during an early climb, i saw in the distance a man with a silver backpack. I could tell he was older. He kept stopping. The distance between us diminished. I caught up. He, too was exhausted from the previous two days' exertions in horrendous conditions. I thought, "Hmmm, my kinda guy." He could navigate!
I don't think he was thrilled to have me on his tail, but he finally accepted that i was not going away, and we began to chat amiably. He was really a very nice man to whom I was very grateful. He allowed me to express my thanks by my treating us to tea and scones in Patterdale.How we enjoyed relaxing in the Patterdale Hotel where it was warm and dry, even though we agreed that the scones were disappointing! For shame!
Oh--I never did report how angry I was that Sherpa (the booking company) changed my B and B for tonight. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The B and B they put me in is in a much better location than the one I had chosen, even if it is less luxurious, but these owners could not be nicer.
Not only do I have wi-fi here--not available in town--but, not wanting to go to the not-so-hot local pub for dinner, I asked the owner if they made packed lunches. (Most do.) "Yes, of course." "By any chance, may I get a packed lunch but for dinner, instead?" "Sure!" Not only did Hazel (the proprietess) prepare a tuna sandwich, chips, and salad (you would not get salad in a packed lunch), she added a bowl of soup.
In all B and B bedrooms, there are tea and coffee-making facilites. Here there is Cadvury's hot chocolate mix. It is divine!
You may be wondering, "If the walk is so damn hard, why did I decide to do it again?" It didn't rain last time, at least not in the Lake District where the walking is the most difficult and where there is NO. and I mean NO, sineage. The weather makes all the difference. Not exactly all. Walking with friends, meeting up with strangers who are kind and helpful makes it possible.
Tomorrow I can get a really early start 'cause I am very close to where the path picks up, so my strategy of waiting for someone to come along in case of difficulty is sure to be effective, yet again!
It is raining lightly now, but who knows, maybe the sun really will come out tommorow!
You may be wondering, "If the walk is so damn hard, why did I decide to do it again?"
ReplyDeleteThat's exactly what I was wondering just as I got to that sentence. I'm glad you are finding such nice people along the way to help out when you need it. I hope you have some sunny days ahead of you.
Mary