Left la casa at about 6:15 because even though the distance today was modest—12 miles—there was a grocery store that needed getting to before it closed at 1:00. I arrived at 11:15. Google Maps, now that I have a functioning phone, directed me, so I was able to restock the larder, so to speak, and have eggs for dinner, and later a double chocolate magnum from the bar. The taxi ride back to Bernedo from Santa Cruz, all of fifteen minutes, cost €50. Would you believe? That is because the taxi had to come way from Peñacerrada. "Oh," I said to the son of Fernando the taxi driver who was supposed to have driven, "If you live in Peñacerrada, you probably know Maite." (She is the woman who runs the cute B and B there.) "Oh, yes," he said. "She is my aunt and the woman who owns the panadería" is my mother." And I think that they are all related to Silvie, who owns the casa rural here in Bernedo and that they have a scam going with Fernando because it was Silvie who recommended Fernando way over there in Peñacerrada when there is a perfectly nice and very competent taxi driver by the name of Carlos right in Santa Cruz de Campezo who could have done the job. Oh well, everybody'a back needs a scratch, and everyone has to earn a living.
The big news of the day is that I did not make any errors. Maybe a first for this walk. A few moments of equivocation, to be sure, but no added miles. It seems that in this section, and it is all very regional, there has been some recent effort put into grooming the path. Just the fact that there are real paths is notable.
But it is always something:
Next morning, a 6:15 pick up again—by Carlos, the perfectly nice and very competent taxista—to return to Santa Cruz de Campezo to begin the truncated walk to Los Arcos. Truncated because it is possible to divide this stage into two, which I happily did, and am I ever glad! The stage today was barely seven miles, but over a 3110 feet of climbing and 4100 of descent, all very steep. The descent, well, let's just say that for part of it sitting down and sliding, and wondering whether I should close my eyes, was the preferred option.
There was a decent stretch of ridge walking where the views were like this on either side:
But it was so windy that just pushing on ahead with the poles was all I could manage. Some dramatic stone formations on the way down:
It was a good walk and I am happy to save the last eleven miles for tomorrow.
So, if you have to get in touch, I am at the Hospederia del Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Codes, where I arrived at 10:30 a.m. It is a decent enough place to have some extra hours to rest—yes, rest— provided that you bring your own soap for the shower. Towels were provided.
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