June 24+25 Berantevilla to Peñacerrada to Bernedo

Sergio, el taxista—remember him?—who was to return me to Berantevilla where today's section began, refused to pick me up at 6:00 a.m. or at 6:15.  He said 6:30.  We compromised.  He showed up at 6:23.  I told him that his web site promised service 24 hours a day but he was not moved.  I have learned that web sites promise a lot that is not provided.  Anyway, I was concerned that it was going to be a wretchedly hot day and the twenty-five minutes difference counts when there is a lot of hillage—as, indeed, there was today— that is ever so much easier to tackle during the cooler hours of the morning.

A new phenomenon today: actual paths!!  What a joy!  The waymarking was good in most places, too, but getting through these towns, small as they are, is a challenge every time.  The streets wind and turn and there can be several possible or impossible choices.  You are almost euphoric when you get it right.

All I think about, it seems, is food.  Where to get it, when I can get it, how many days does one trip to a grocery store have to last.  The place I am staying tonight has a panadería, which is the only shop in town.  I arrived at 1:00 and bought the very last loaf.  Some roast chicken would be awfully nice right about now.  Sardines will have to do.  Oh, one thing they have here is tuna and salmon in tins, but in a pate form.  Once you get over the shock, if, in fact you do, that this is not cat food, it is really not bad.

The next phase, to Bernedo, was mostly a good walk, but again, missing subtle unexpected turns added a mile, if not more, to an already long walk....17 1/2 is a lot of miles.

An old house:

Not helpful:

Is this a warning or a vocative?

Last night's accommodation was just adorable, a redone mill or something like that.  Thick stone walls, sweet little cut out windows, cozy, and good wi-fi.  Tonight, in Bernedo, I have a whole house!  Wanted to go to the "best bar in town"  (there are two), thinking I could get a tortilla (egg and potato) and heat it up.  But wouldn't you know, the bar was closed today.  A good thing I decided to check tomorrow's start point and hit the second bar before taking a shower and all because that bar closed at 3:30.  Usually bars are open until 11:00.  Anyway, I asked for a cheese bocadillo (a sandwich).  It was just that: two slices of bread with cheese in the middle.  But having a stove allows one to toast bread, so I did!  I guess I could have melted the cheese, but didn't think about that at the time.