Eighth day El Camino

We did have trouble finding our way out of Estrella, but at last managed without adding much to the mileage. None the less, this sort of thing is very anxiety making.

Today we had a choice: the high route, two kilometers shorter but two hundred and fifty meters more climbing than the low route. Not really knowing the pleasures of either choice, we opted for the high route, which, as Tanya pointed out, did not involve all that much climb. We did miss seeing a picturesque town, but for several hours were rewarded with a wooded walk on a dirt path and gorgeous views. Mileage for today, a modest 14.43.

The weather continues to be glorious as you can see from the blue sky and sun in the morning:




The big draw of the day was a bodega. According to my ability to translate, The sign below says something like, "Pilgrim, if you want to arrive in Santiago with strength and vitality, have a drink and a toast with this great wine for happiness."



There were two spigots; the one on the left is being tested by Tanya. The one on the right dispenses water. Not many people opted for that one even though it was about 8:30 a.m. One guy, definitely taking liberties with the bodega's offer, filled up a small water bottle with wine. Tsk, tsk.




See that fortification on yonder hill? Back in the day, it guarded the area of Pamplona:



Some fellow ditched a pair of perfectly good Loewe boots, minus insoles and one lace:




But not before he deposited his container of yogurt in one of them....or someone else thought it was a garbage can:





For some people the already excellent directions are not good enough, unless this soul had some other meaning in mind. What I want to know is, "Does the spoon go with the yogurt?"




Afternoon view:



A different water drainage system. In this case, the streets slope up away from the middle:




Haystacks:



A guy in a tractor loaded with olive branches pulled up to a pen of goats and tossed them their lunch. The geese in the background were not fed on this run.




My room at the Monaco Hotel has a balcony. This is the view:



What do we do each day after we arrive at our hotel? Shower or take a bath (since we are staying in hotels and not B and B's, many more opportunities for a bath and foot soaking). Throw out the unneeded papers from the backpack, replace with the next day's, wash out clothes, then go to the lobby or elsewhere for some refreshment. Oh, how I wish I could drink sangria! Agua fria just does not have that "having a drink," kind of feel. Then we either look about the town if it is particularly look-worthy or we need supplies, or take a rest before dinner. Well, today we went to the local square, which was lined with small establishments serving drinks and tapas or a menú del día, lots and lots of people, probably mostly walkers, sitting at tables enjoying the weather, food, and drink, and the company of friends. It was such a relaxing and pleasant time, and so European!

Tonight we dined at the hotel, mostly out of inertia. We had a great meal, maybe the best so far, for only eleven euros. You just never know!

Question about oleander answered by Betsy Cahill. No, Ophelia does not mention oleander! It is gratifying to have these matters settled!


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Location:Los Arcos

Day Seven El Camino

15.47 mile day started with a walk through Puente La Reina, named to honor the elegant bridge leading into the town:




A common sight:



Hope this is not a common sight---peregrinos (what everyone walking is called) discarding clothes by the side of the road:



But this is worse. It can be difficult to find a "bathroom" spot. A low area near some picnic tables offered needed privacy as lots of people have discovered and didn't mind advertising:




On to better views:




Plowed field with poplars and stones. To the left is the wall of a cemetery:




We had a relaxing stop in this town, where the "barista" (not a term used here) was dancing to a recording of Swan Lake. We loved it!





This looks like thistle only it is blue:




Another pretty flower-whose-name-I-do-not-know:



Yet another peregrino who succumbed; this one a Dane. Is this going to be a daily occurrence?





Afternoon scene with haystacks:




Truly this statue is worn out from doing guard duty at the church:




Speaking of churches, it is notable that every church we come to is locked. A bit strange, is it not, on a pilgrimage route?

A heavily decorated door:




Bridge into Estella:



We are slightly cranky tonight because the hotel into which we are booked is a mile off the trail, a mile that has to be repeated tomorrow. If it were in an interesting part of town or had some comfort to commend it, we would be less cranky, but it isn't and it doesn't. The traffic is loud and relentless. But other than that, the walk is going well.


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Location:Estrella

Fourth Day

Quoted mileage: 14.67; actual mileage: 15.35, not off by much.

It is the strangest thing, El Camino is flooded with walkers and bikers, as in bicycles, until about noon and then everyone seems to disappear. Just to record that observation.

Pamplona is a city of some size. Anyone who has walked long distance paths knows that navigating through cities is the hardest part no matter how good the markings are. El Camino is very well marked with a shell symbol and yellow arrows, but we had to stay vigilant for the first forty five minutes or so until we were out of the city. Three pairs of eyes are better than one---yes, even I occasionally spot the helpful designators.

The morning was cool and rain threatened; good walking weather:




Uh oh, another casualty, this fellow from Ireland:





A sculpted way marker:





We--Tan, Ian, and I--wondered, "WWDQTOT?" (What would Don Quixote think of these?)




The first three hours or so were uphill--not steep but steady--until we reached this ridge where there is a famous sculpture by an artist whose name I do not know. It is delightful:







Aw, what the heck, might as well get in line, too:





Yet a third loss upon The Way. This is becoming a little bit nervous-making:




View with bell tower:



Close up of a big bell tower:



Doesn't Ophelia speak of oleander? Alex---yes? No?








From poison flower, to passion flower:




Serious graffiti:



Not to mention this one: (The OED gives permission to use "graffiti" as a singular, FYI, in case anyone cares. But I really wanted to write "graffito" because how often do you get to say THAT?)




Where the shell symbol comes from? From legends. Here is a short version of the shortest: James was beheaded in Jerusalem. His disciples brought his body to Spain (with or without the head is not clear). There was a shipwreck off shore; the body disappeared. By a miracle it reappeared covered in shells. In any case, the shell is an attractive symbol. There was a a whole string of brass ones along a street:





Towns are deserted at noon, as in not a living soul is to be seen except for us peregrinos:



Who measures up?










Ian fit the mold the best! "But it is all good!" (Apologies, adolescent as it is, that is a bit of a private joke.)

Afternoon view:





Honest to goodness olives on olive trees:



And honest to goodness grapes on grape vines:




At about 2:30 or was it 3:00, we reached Puenta La Reina and our hotel. In the courtyard was this guitar player. How nice is that?




A terrific walk: lucky with the weather, beautiful scenery, nice people, more than decent accommodations, food way better than expected. Is it possible---no complaints? How long will that last?!

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Location:Puenta La Reina

First day of El Camino

A belated post. This one seems not to have made it on its proper day.

Our first day, 16.77 miles, began at 8:30 a.m. in the rain. We chose the low route for a variety of reasons not the least of which was the weather. Why climb an extra I-don't-know-how-many meters if you will not be able to enjoy the fabulous view that the high route promises? Although we "paid" for this choice by having some road walking, the road walking was not too bad and we had gorgeous scenery almost all the way. We also were able to stop for a latte at about the half way point. The French, and so far the Spanish, do know how to make an excellent cup of coffee. On a cool, rainy day the mid-day treat was especially welcome.

The guillotine is so yesterday, but these heads seemed to be serving as scarecrows:






View of a village with rain clouds on the mountains:




The Pyrenees with rain clouds but no town:



A pretty stretch of path:



There were many many big slugs along the way. Euuuuhhh:




Every now and then there is water available, but in this case the blue sign in the background informs that, OK, you can wash your hands if you like, but do not drink:




If the weather had been good, I might have taken a picture of every cross we saw (maybe not), but this church, cross, and bell just outside of Roncesvalles, where we are staying, at a very nice place, may I add, captures something of the sense of the area:




Today's walk was long but lovely. It did not rain all day, and wet, misty air is perfect for this kind of activity. At one point, we met a group of people, two Japanese, one German, one American, and one of undetermined origin, but likely Mediterranean. Anyhow, they sort of appeared out of nowhere and in a mix of languages asked us if we knew where they could get a cup of coffee. They had started out where we had, but they were walking in the wrong direction! We never saw them again!

We met other small groups, people from Hungary and Italy and France, and the best part is that everyone tries so hard to find some common language to be able to exchange words of greeting and good cheer. One guy had a pen and was asking those he met to sign his T shirt.

By the way, a lot of people were really struggling with the uphill sections of the walk. Maybe they did not realize that you have to prepare for it.

The pilgrim meal. This is "thing," along the way. It is a set price, set menu three course meal + wine, usually inexpensive. Last night we ordered one with rather dismal results. Tonight our hotel offered such a meal at 7:00, and since we did not want to wait until 8:30 when real dinner begins, opted for the Pilgrim menu for a modest 9 euros. It was delicious! Thick, hot vegetable soup, pork and french fries for those who eat pork, a salad and a frittata kind of thing for those who do not, red wine (apparently quite good) and a decent sweetened yogurt for dessert. About 100 people--a wild guess but lots---at many big tables--came from the surrounding hotels and albergues. It was really quite nice. Sort of like summer camp for old people!


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Location:Puente la Reina,Spain