Day Twenty eight El Camino

A pink horizon was the first sign of our most greatest walking day, so far, on El Camino.






Woods, paths, hills we go up and hills we come down, trees, grasses, bushes, vegetation of various kinds surrounded us all day. We are so happy!






Just look how big those stemless flowers grow in this rich environment:





After some time, we reach "the iron cross," which, it is said, marks the highest point on El Camino:





Isn't this a sweet little rustic structure?




Except it is....




for a hostel.

In case walking to Santiago is not enough (222 K more), we could shoot for Jerusalem:





Two playful onlookers:




Yes, mouintains!




Sometimes the path is not so easy to walk on. You really do have to watch your step, which means that you cannot take in everything around you all the time:





We were so excited by the mountains after days and days and days of flat walking that another look is not too much:




Phew, we have it right:





Two dogs taking their siesta in the sun after a good lunch:





Things for which I am a sucker and of which I take way too many photos:

Small windows with curtains:





or without, and boarded up:





or with glass and bars:





Old old old structures, especially with old old old stone steps:




Doors:



Clothes hanging out to dry:





Now on to other things. Remnant of a big tree with a deep, swirly bark:





Mid afternoon of a perfect day we approach Molinaseca:




Ian and Tan:




And me:




We are staying at a place called El Palacio, and let me tell you, it is! Tan and Ian are given a room with 360 degree views. I have great views, too:




And this:




And a bathroom that is HUGE:





We go shopping. This tienda (store) advertises its wares on a genuine turntable. Rotating bananas....there is nothing like 'em:





More old steps! Aren't they great?





Profusion of petunias:




This has been a spectacularly lovely day.

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Location:Rabanal del Camino to to Malinaseca

Day Twenty seven El Camino

We trudged 12.89 miles. Part of the time it rained; part of the time it didn't. Most of the time we walked near a road, but a short stretch took us through some woods, yeah. There was a fence, which, along almost all of its considerable length, people had woven things, mostly crosses of sticks:





You know you have arrived when you see this familiar sight (note the stork nest):




A sod roof in decay:




Almost everything is on the same street. We are at the Posada de Gaspar:





The rooms in our hostal rural are as plain as can be, but the building itself is 17th C; wood, stone and metal work wonderful to look at. The keys to the rooms are large and hand carved:




And after turning in the key, we head off for Molinaseca.
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Location:Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Day twenty six El Camino

The constant roar of trucks, sounds of people shouting in the bar mixed with muffled voices through paper-thin walls, a thick piece of foam on a cot for a mattress, a pillow filled with who knows what, and linens just a bit yucky were red lights for a bad night's sleep, and we had 18.37 miles to accomplish the next day. A cocktail of two Motrin + two Tylenol did the trick. Despite all, I slept.

We were not sorry to leave Hostal LIbertad, although, really, the room was clean and there was hot water and decent towels, so off we went at 7:40 a.m. The first hours were along more asphalt; cars and trucks were constant company. This seemed a good opportunity to study the low life of the route.

Serious ant hills:




A singular castillo de arena, the queen's residence, perhaps?





A Large snail, purposefully making its way:





And a well-fed slug with perky antennae:




(The ants, snails, and slugs seem to be in some sort of relationship because all three seemed to "be" and then "not be" all at once.)

Oh, and one creeping caterpillar, too:





Three pussy cats all in a row:





Apples that fell not far from the tree:





Branches with berries reaching to the ground:





Then there is this kind of low life:









For shame!


At last! We reach el rio Órbigo--see the sign?





See the bridge in the fog and the river?





We change direction! We follow the arrow pointing right. This takes us onto the gold route. We willingly walk an extra kilometer to leave the noisy noisy noisy N 120 behind. Oh, joy!




Paths are now stony:





And for a stretch, hard-packed dirt (the best walking surface):





And instead of garbage strewn along road, we see corn:






and landscape that has colors other than grey. There are mountains in the distance, but you cannot see them in this shot:





These cows were so dirty, poor things:





Oy:




A sculpture (before the invention of the backpack?) titled Quo Vadis:





Eventually, Astorga comes into view, but it is still an hour or more before we reach it:




We are at the Gaudí Hotel. It is across the street from the Gaudí Palace and the cathedral. It is a beautiful little hotel. Lovely furnishings, spacious room, in fact, a room with a view!





Astorga has more chocolate shops than makes any sense, but I do not buy chocolate. I buy a giant cookie. It looks like a chewy sugar cookie but it tastes terrible. Too bad.

After we get something to eat in a beautiful eaterie, we head for the sights. How I wish we had our rest day here rather than in León. Hours in the Gaudí Palace would have been wonderful, but we had only an hour and a half to see the palace and the cathedral.

It was impossible to take photos of the fabulous vaulted ceilings, exquisite decoration, just everything! So here are a few paltry details of the artwork that in no way do justice to their grandeur and delicacy.

Painted column that go on forever:





A square of stained glass:





or maybe this detail is more beautiful:





Small section of my most favorite series of windows whose pinks change as the light strikes the glass:





In the cathedral, there is much gold:





It shows up better in this detail because my flash went off, which is not allowed:





There are some huge, old music books on display. Sadly, we hear no music:




We have had a very fine few hours in Astorga!

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Location:Villadango del Páramo to Astorga