July 09, Keswick to Skiddaw House

 Here is what All Trails has to say about the Cumbria Way stage from Keswick to Caldbeck:

17.9 mi.  length             3293 ft. elevation gain                 8-10 hours est. time

Embark on a magnificent section of the Cumbria Way that journeys through the atmospheric heart of the Northern Fells.  Setting off from the bustling hub of Keswick, the route follows the path of the River Greta before striking out into the high country, passing below the imposing Lonscale Crags.  You will cross a brilliant variety of upland terrains, transitioning from rocky mountain pathways to open moorland fields, with the remote Skiddaw House offering a memorable landmark along the way.

The climb up towards the summit of High Pike involves a steady, steep effort that will test your legs but the panoramic views from the top are a fantastic reward.  Navigation across the high moors can be tricky in places where the trail is less defined, though keeping a close eye on your map ensures you will stay on track.  Passing the remote shelter of Lingy Hut, the trail guides you down the hillside.......

Translation: The walk from Hell!

What they don't tell you:  You have already climbed your legs off before you reach the leg testing climb toward the summit of High Peak, which comes at about12 or more miles into the walk.  I had decided not to do this stage and after walking about a third of the route to "the remote Skiddaw House," and back I was more than happy with my decision. Too much, too far, too long, too remote, too scary. And you know, not beautiful, but I do realize that that is subjective. Barren moorlands not so much my thing.

The section I did do was hard enough—you climb forever at the start, oh, and it was already two miles to where the adventure starts and it was a relentless, ugly stone track and it was hot. I reached Skiddaw House, described, as already noted, by All Trails as a "memorable landmark" Had I realized that, I would have taken a picture of it. This was 3 1/2 hours after setting out. I was going to go a little bit farther but I wasn't sure of the way at that point, so that was the sign to turn around.

On my way out of Keswick, another of the 200

So close and yet so far away:

I caught you, little fellow!

There are lots and lots of bunnies around here.

Noted:

All of that was on the way to the way.

Either these crossings are becoming easier or I am getting better:

Honestly, that one was pretty shallow.

The countryside starts out looking like this:

And then becomes more like this:

And then like this:

Do not neglect to note the singular tree (above):

A one plank bridge with one railing is better than a one plank bridge with no railing:

Nearing the end of the path, I noticed this pillar and thought, "Woah, a stella!  Let me see if there is some cuneiform thereupon."  There was not:

I encountered a number of hikers, mostly in pairs, as I was on the return leg of my out-and- back, and what struck me was how late there were getting started. CRAZY! Then I had a lovely chat with a couple, to whom I should have said as we parted, "Please tell me your names again," but I was too embarrassed to ask.